"Japan Fashion Now" Opening Night @ Museum at FIT

Japan Fashion Now
Special Exhibitions Gallery
September 17, 2010 through January 8, 2010

Gothic/Punk duo Hangry and Angry (singers Hitomi Yoshizawa and Rika Ishikawa). The singers’ aliases were inspired by the cartoon cats Hangry and Angry created by illustrator GASHICON for h. NAOTO. © HANGRY&ANGRY 2009 Project. Photograph courtesy of S-inc

Last night I attended the cocktail celebration of The Museum at FIT's opening of their new gallery showing "Japan Fashion Now". Curated by Dr. Valerie Steele, the museum's director, it has the honor of being the first exhibition to "explore contemporary Japanese fashion in all its radical creativity, from designer fashion to street style," including the latest in menswear. Dr. Steele said it best, that "Japan continues to be on the cutting edge - maybe the bleeding edge - of fashion". Bleeding edge is right! With today's youth being so interested in such a culture, it's only right that NYC be graced with the presence of such a viewing. As a person who knows a good many who'd kill to get such designs as h.Naoto and Alice and the Pirates, I was honored to be able to attend the opening. Set in 2 sections, it was a true testimony to the beginning and the now of Japanese fashion.

Number (N)ine. Man's ensemble, autumn/winter 2009, Japan, museum purchase

In the 1980s, Japan's fashion revolution was started by such creators as Issey Miyake, Rei Kawakubo of Comme des Garcons, Yohji Yamamoto, Kenzo, Kansai Yamamoto, Hanae Mor, and Matsuda. Simply displayed, the smaller of the 2 galleries housed the somber navy, gray and black palette and served as a great introduction to the exhibit. My personal favorite was being able to see Miyake's Molded Plastic Red Bustier from the Museum's "Love and War: The Weaponized Woman" exhibition.

Issey Miyake, molded plastic red bustier, 1983, Japan, gift of Krizia Co.

The main gallery, in contrast, is done up in a21st Century Tokyo mise en scene designed by Charles B. Froom and touched on many of the more popular and modern themes seen in Japanese fashion today. Besides the traditional plaids and leathers seen in the goth/punk scene, there were also playful prints and extreme cutouts shaped like skulls. From Kamekazi suits to elegant lolitas, there was plenty in representation to all that can be seen in the streets of Japan, including Cosplay, or Costume Play, a well known tradition done by fans of popular anime and manga.

h.NAOTO. Gothic Lolita dress ensemble, autumn/winter 2008-09, Japan, museum purchase.

Not only were the displays worth the trip, but there were plenty in attendance dressed to impress. And while I wasn't decked out to the nines, I was wearing my Putumayo pocket watch necklace and D&G snake skin trimmed high tops. I was even asked if I was a designer, which I am even though I wasn't one of the many featured. And while I wish there was a Baby, The Starts Shine Bright gown in the giveaway bags, alas it was not to be. However, the reusable tote and free bottles from Sokenbicha, one of the sponsors of the night's event were appreciated just the same. They were passing out tastings of their selection and I do recommend you try it. (Yes, a tea review and what?) It's light and not overbearing despite the black tea being strong. You can find their products at your local Whole Foods.

Jun Takahashi for Undercover, coat from the “Earmuff maniac – evolving comfort” collection, 2009-10. Photograph courtesy of Maria Chandoha Valentino.

Also sponsoring the event was Yagi Tsusho Limited, the global marketing and merchandising company specializing in fashion, including brands like Moncler. Mr. Tsusho himself was present and gave a little speech prior to the beginning of the evening.

Overall, I highly recommend this exhibit to anyone interested in fashion and cosplay. The published work "Japan Fashion Now" is available for pre-order from Yale University Press and will be released November 8, 2010.